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The campground nestled in an aspen grove at seven thousand feet elevation, in a shallow bowl on the side of a rather nice mountain in northern Nevada. The brilliant golden leaves had already fallen to the ground leaving only a few less colorful stragglers waving in the brisk wind. The damp ground was carpeted with them, and the aspens white trunks and bare branches looked a bit eerie in the flat gray light of late afternoon. Leaden clouds peered over the mountain peak at me, slowly moving in to block out the rest of the sky.

Earlier, I had driven up to the higher campground, up by the lake, but the gate there was chained for the season. I probably wouldn't have stayed up there anyway, because you never know how much snow might dump out of the sky this time of year, and that road coming down in deep snow could prove entertaining. It's a fun road, curvy steep narrow and precipitous, on a good day. The drive is worth it, if simply for the view, but you tend to pay attention because the mistake would be a big one.

No, the forest service campground in the aspens would do. I just needed a place to sleep before hopping back on the interstate the next morning, and this was pretty enough. A full day and a half of driving lay ahead, and I had places to go and people to meet.

I had been in and out of weather all day while driving east out of California. The Sierras had enough snow that I needed four wheel drive ...

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